Kanpur: Kanpur happened to be the biggest city of northern India in 1950. Situated on the right bank of river Ganga, Kanpur developed into a flourishing industrial town, in an era, when the development of infrastructure and growth of industries were the most neglected sectors in the country. Lal Imli from Cawnpore Woolen Mills was a household name for woolens. Khaki drill from Elgin Mills could be seen almost everywhere for the uniforms of defence services and employees of the private and public sector. Khaki drill was also popular with all sections of the people for formal and informal wear due to its soft colour tones and durability. Towards the later part of the nineteenth century, a number of textile mills were established at Kanpur. That was the time, when most of the items of day to day consumption used to be imported from Britain. Under the context, Kanpur became popular as Manchester of the east. During that period, leather tanning was another major industry of Kanpur. A large number of tanneries were set up at Kanpur leading to the development of some of the prestigious industries for the production of leather footwear, leather harness and saddlery and other leather goods. That gave Kanpur the nickname Leather City of the world. By that time, Flex had become a household name in footwear. Another industrial complex at Kanpur was a group of ordinance factories established by the Government of India for meeting the needs of small arms and ammunition and other field items for the the defence services.
Historical Background: Bithoor is a pre-historic town located about 20 km upstream from Kanpur on the bank of river Ganga. According to Hindu mythology, after creating the universe, Lord Brahma performed Ashvamegh yagya at Bithoor and established a lingam there. It is also said that Rishi Valmiki had an ashram at Bithoor, where he wrote Balmiki Ramayan. When Sita was banished by Ram from Ayodya, she spent the rest of her life at Balmiki Ashram of Bithor and her sons Luv and Kush were born and brought up there. Records about the early history and development of Kanpur are not available, but it seems that Kanpur had its beginnings as a small village in the year 1207. It remained under the domination of Hindu kings for almost 500 years. Subsequently, Kanpur was part of Oudh kingdom from 1773 to 1801, when it passed into British hands under a treaty with Nawab Sadat Ali Khan of Oudh. Afterwards the growth of Kanpur was phenomenal. Gradually, Kanpur became the most important military station in the north and looking to the general environment of safety and security, British businessmen settled down there and provided a tremendous boost for big business and industries at Kanpur.
After the third Anglo Maratha war, Bajirao Peshwa II moved from Pune and settled down at Bithoor in 1818 in fulfillment of treaty obligations imposed by the British. His son Nana Sahib made Bithoor his permanent home and he played a very prominent role during the freedom movement of 1857. Most of the leaders of the freedom movement used to visit Bithoor during that period and it served as the centre of the freedom movement in the north.
Lower Ganga Canal: Upper Ganga Canal which is the main Ganga Canal was constructed during the period 1842 to 1854. Upper Ganga Canal originates from Bhimgoda Barrage at Haridwar and thereafter runs through Har ki Pairi and other ghats of Haridwar. The head regulator of Ganga Canal is located at Mayapur. Passing through Roorkee, it runs through Muzaffarnagar, Meerut, Bulandshahr and Aligarh districts and is the primary source of prosperity in the western districts of UP. Ganga Canal bifurcates into Kanpur Branch and Etawah Branch at Nanu in Aligarh district. The portion of the canal from Haridwar to Nanu is known as Upper Ganga Canal. The canal system below Nanu is covered by Lower Ganga Canal. Thereafter, for further extension of irrigation facilities and for augmentation of existing supplies in Kanpur and Etawah Branches, a barrage was constructed on river Ganga at Narora in Bulandshahr District. The feeder channel from Narora crosses Kanpur and Etawah branches at 48 km below Nanu and goes further down into Mainpuri district to feed a newly constructed channel known as Bhoganipur Branch, which was completed in 1880. The three branches, Kanpur Branch, Etawah Branch and Bhoganipur Branch form the lower Ganga Canal system and draw their supplies from the feeder channel from Narora. Supplemental supplies from Upper Ganga Canal System are drawn, when sufficient water is not available from Narora.
Fatehpur Division of Lower Ganga Canal: Head Quarters of Kanpur Division and Fatehpur Division of Lower Ganga Canal were located at Kanpur. The channels of Fatehpur Division were at the tail end of Kanpur Branch and provided irrigation facilities mostly in Fatehpur district. The Administrative Quarter, Inspection House and residence of the Executive Engineer of Fatehpur Division were constructed in colonial style in the good old days. These were magnificent buildings located on the bank of river Ganga in the Cantonment Area of Kanpur. We moved from Ballia to Kanpur in July 1950 and stayed at the Inspection House for a few days.
My first regular assignment in irrigation department of U.P. was at Rohilkhand Canals in Bareilly. Incidentally, my posting in Fatehpur Division of Lower Ganga Canal at Kanpur turned out to be my last assignment in the field. Rohilkhand Canals had tremendous diversity in irrigation systems, soil conditions, cropping patterns, climatic behaviour and related problems associated with running and maintenance of the canals. That provided tremendous scope for the exercise of initiative, drive and professional skills for keeping the channels running and for covering maximum area in the commands of channels, with judicious regulation and optimum utilization of supplies. All that was a great learning experience, more so, in the beginning of a budding career. The job at Fatehpur Division of Lower Ganga Canal was much simpler. Kanpur Division released supplies for Fatehpur Division and all that was needed was to ensure that the water reached the tail ends of all the channels and all plots of land in the command areas of channels got requisite supplies in time. With all the experience gained at Bareilly, it was smooth sailing all the way at Fatehpur.
There were eight to ten inspection houses in every sub-division, which were located almost ten miles apart from each other. And we were expected to spend atleast twenty nights out in the field every month, away from the headquarters. As such, we were on the move almost every alternate day from one inspection house to another, with full contingent of our camp staff, records, bags and baggage. Gradually,we got used to long spells of riding or driving on canal banks and seeing channels running full in one week and dry in the other. The channels running full had a soothing influence and were a treat to watch. They flashed visions of green fields and bumper crops. When the channels were not running, they invited all the attention for the observation of sore points and for the exercise of all the professional and management skills for speedy maintenance and repairs during the very limited period of closure.
Our life at Kanpur: The city of Kanpur has its spread all along the bank of river Ganga. Our inspection house and other offices were on one end of the city in the cantonment area. Our friends working in Kanpur division of Lower Ganga Canal had their residences in the canal colony on the Mall road just across the cantonment area. Our relations were living at Aryanagar and Nawabgunj located almost on the other end of the city. We had opportunities to make one or two trips to Kanpur during a month and we utilized these visits to have some free moments with our friends and relations. Everybody was familiar with our Cheverolet tourer car and our entourage. Whenever, we happened to stay overnight with them, ringing of the bells by our guards heralded our presence in the neighbourhood. Everybody seemed to be enjoying all that.
Green Park: Green park has a beautiful stadium located on the bank of river Ganga in the city. We had an opportunity to witness the first cricket test match played at Green Park in the year 1950. Team India was pitched against West Indies, which was one of the strongest teams in international cricket at that time, with the batting trio of three Ws ( Weeks, Worrel and Walcott) and spinning duo of Ramadhin and Valentine, who were considered as the best spinners in international cricket at that time. Indian team was led by Vijay Merchant and had some very dashing and talented players, who went all the way, stroke by stroke and ball by ball, but were spun out after tea on the fifth and final day by the talented spinners of West Indies.
Ups and downs of life: We were associated with irrigation department of U.P. for six years from July 1945 to July 1951. Those were the most formative years of our life. Transition from the sheltered life of a boy, whose smallest needs were looked after by an exceedingly protective and loving household, to the life of an officer in the field responsible for running and maintenance of irrigation and drainage systems, which were directly linked with the bread, butter and living of hundreds of thousands of people, scattered in remote and far flung areas, provided all the excitement and a lifetime opportunity for interaction with different types of people and for the exercise of all the initiative, drive, dedication and creativity. We had very fruitful and satisfying years in irrigation department of U.P. and finally bid farewell to the department in July 1951.